Friday, May 3

WIP - Alma

What a week.  It's flown by so fast it's hard to catch my breath.  I have made some progress with my Sewaholic Alma, I have a few WIP pictures to share.  Not very flattering pictures, but that's what WIP and (hopefully) wearable muslin is all about.  Mr. Lina took these on Wednesday night but I didn't have a chance to post.  I made a little more progress last night but let's see where I was on Wednesday...

You'll notice the left and right don't look the same.  I (clearly) am not a small busted Sewaholic pear shaped model, a rather sizable FBA was needed.  Based on high bust measurements I cut a 16, but thinking about Myrna cutting a different size for front and back, I actually cut the size 14 for the back to see how that worked.  I added my FBA (can't remember how much, 1.5" maybe?  I think I needed about 3").  The thing is, I did a crappy job of lining up my darts.

What a mess.  My darts are way too low, there is extra fabric to pinch out and the lower darts aren't lining up with my bust.  I was rather disappointed but I could at least see where to start. 

So I marked my bust apex, redrew my darts and moved the waist darts to under my bust point.  (Side vent, after the terrible shaping above, I wanted to verify the right angle for bust darts and reference after reference would just say "and redraw darts to the correct place", and that correct place would be...?).

Don't I look perkier?  Not perfect but so much better.

Coming back to the top picture again...

On the right side I've pinned where I want the new dart to go under my bust (purple circle that looked far more noticeable when I added it).  The arrow points where the dart is.  When I did the FBA, I didn't think about how the lower darts would also need adjusting.

Last night, I fixed up both sides - tweaked the darts, gave them a better press and I based on the little sleeves to get a better sense of it without pins.  I didn't want to take it off.  I think I'm going to like this pattern. 

One question for those who have made it.  When I basted the side seams to check the fit, I started by leaving the zipper side open, but it seemed loose enough so I sewed it shut.  I don't need a zipper to get it off and on.  Am I leaving too much ease?  Is this normal?  Or is the zipper more important for the full sleeve options (I'm doing cap sleeves)?  I'm going to sew up the sides but I'd like to hear if there is a reason to add the zipper I'm not seeing.

So not much left to do.  I have not looked at the back with a critical eye, but it is not the obvious disaster that the front is.  There is space between my lower back and the blouse but I think it suits the style.  I think the most I'd want to do is end the back darts a little higher.  The sleeves need to be added on permanently and finish the side seams properly.  A quick hem and I believe this will be a truly wearable muslin, possibly even this weekend.  I don't think the pattern pieces will be going away prior to cutting out another one.

Is it the weekend yet?

Oh and not much to update on the FET.  I had some communication with the clinic about medications etc.  I will have 3 doses of Humira prior to transfer (so May 9th AND May 23rd - I'm going to need to buy more, $1,730 was for 2 pens not 3).  May 13th (Day 21) I'm in for blood work & ultrasound to see if I ovulate (doubt it) because that determines if I take Evil Provera or not.  Until then, I'm doing really well at taking my metformin, vitamins, (even flossing!) etc and making wiser choices eating.  I had some pretty bad PMS bloat going on with that period, I've lost 6lbs this week and I am quite certain that is not fat.  It's a good start that I'm aiming to build on in a very healthy way. 

You must read Falling Through Your Clothes today, it's exactly what I'm thinking about right now.  I'm not counting calories or following any stupid restriction (I am consulting a nutritionist, good timing for my work to offer up free access to a nutritionist for 6 months, no?).  I am simply paying attention to being hungry (which I have not been this week) and picking foods that are good for me.  I'm not happy at this weight, it does not feel comfortable.  My comfortable weight is higher than most charts, but it's a spot I can (generally) maintain and feel good.  That's what I want.


  1. Sera, I have been thinking about eating better too and ahem .... Working out as well .... I've been so low on enErgy .... What better time than spring to do something about it...

    Your wearable muslin for Alma looks promising ....

    1. This stretch of good weather feels like a real kick off to good things, doesn't it? I think it's a great time to do something about it.


  2. The top is looking better with every alteration! And I know what you mean about wanting to function at your optimal weight with optimal health. We'll have to chat more about that tomorrow!

  3. We started eating better at the beginning of the year, and for a while, I lost weight pretty quickly...but then...we kind of started to get away from eating so good. So far I've held steady, but if I ever hope to lose these extra 30 lbs, I really need to get my butt in gear. So yeah...I can sympathize. Good luck on getting it all figured out!

    When I made the Alma, it had a lot of ease on it IMO too. I'd say if your fabric has any stretch at all, skip the zip--it's just extra work for no real benefit. Unless you are wanting it to be more form fitting, and then I'd just take it in as much as you need to and put the zip in. And I feel ya on the dart thing--for me, I need them to run at like a 60* angle to best flatter my particular shape. I'd say try pinching out a few different angles to see what looks best for you. I suppose I'm just as vague as your other sources though, sorry!

    1. I find healthy eating is a bit like a muscle that needs exercise and routine. Once I start sliding, then it's easier to say yes to fries rather than asking if they could do a baked potato (sides are often a challenge food allergy wise as garden salads often have carrots and ceasar has mustard). One choice at a time will make a difference.

      I can see why Lauren (lladybird) needed a zipper, her Alma is truly a fitted blouse. I don't want it quite that tight. K-Line helped me out on the weekend with it, we'll see if I need the zipper with those alterations.

  4. Thanks for the shout out!
    Great fitting tweaks.
    I did add the zip on my Alma. No stretch in my fabric at all and I likely should have gone up a size... But I like the fit and definitely need the zipper. I remember others saying they didn't need the zipper either. Try without and see.
    Since I bought my invisible zipper foot, putting them in is actually enjoyable! You just have to press the heck out of it before insertion.
    Let me know how you are doing on your eating. We can encourage one another. :)

    1. It's not that I want to avoid the zipper, I was just surprised to find it went off and on easily without it. It had me wondering if I was missing something. I think it is just down to the amount of ease (and a bit of stretch helping out).

      I do like the idea of encouraging each other. Maybe I'll tack progress updates to the end of posts. Being accountable solely to myself isn't quite enough.


Thanks for your comments, I love to have a two way conversation. I seem to be getting a lot of spam from anonymous users and am turning off the ability to comment that way. I really would like to hear from you so if you do want to add your two cents without an OpenId, email me at seraphinalina at gmail dot com.